This week I have chosen the ever so classic and demure Audrey Hepburn as my inspirational pinup style female icon. She was known throughout the world for her timeless style and feminine beauty. I hope you enjoy my following tips and techniques to help you create your Audrey-inspired pinup look!
Audrey’s favorite colors were various shades of pink. She was a minimalist, yet very feminine, and she loved to dress up! Her makeup was always very natural and clean looking. The only thing that was ever truly accentuated on her were her eyebrows, which along with her innocent doe eyes, were her trademark. You can see this in some of the photos I’ve posted below:
1. Moisturize: Use a lightweight moisturizer about 5 minutes before you start applying your base, allowing it to absorb into the skin better. Then use a makeup base primer to smooth out flaws and to keep makeup looking fresh. Recommended: Murad Perfecting Serum
2. Apply a makeup base: My favorite film quality foundation is Makeup Forever HD High Definition Foundation. Apply a small dime sized amount all over your face with foundation brush or sponge.
3. Translucent powder is a must to set your foundation! Using a Powder puff, be sure to press the loose translucent powder firmly into your skin. (simply dusting it over your face with a powder brush, will not set the makeup) you must actually press it into the skin, and then you may sweep off any excess with a powder brush. Recommended: Makeup Forever HD Translucent Powder
4. Eyebrows: Audrey’s look is one of the few makeup looks where there’s an emphasis on thick, polished eyebrows. This will take practice. Remember, you want a thick and almost straight brow, with hardly any arch. Using a stiff angled lining brush, apply a very small amount of the Makeup Forever waterproof Eyebrow Corrector in shades no.0 or no.2 (they are very pigmented so don’t go too dark). With the angle brush, gently widen your existing brows. Be careful not to accentuate your natural arch too much. Recommended: Makeup Forever Waterproof Eyebrow Corrector in no.0 or no.2
5. Eyeshadow: Audrey’s eyeshadow was minimal and clean. Apply a nude shadow over the entire lid, and the same nude color under the brow bone. Then apply some light brown, or taupe shadow to the crease of your eyelid, and blend to the outer area below brow. You may also want to softly blend the nude shadow over the darker shade of shadow in the crease for an all over softer look. Recommended: Mac Jest or Schroom (lid), Mac Schroom (under brow), and Mac Soft Brown (in the crease blending outward)
6. Eyeliner: To achieve Audrey Hepburn’s doe eyes, use a cream/gel liner with an ultra fine angled brush. Draw a very narrow line extending from the top inner corner of your lid at lash line and gently go outward to the end of the lid. Then with your eyes open, gently flick the liquid lining brush in an up and outward direction. Creating a little cat eye effect. The Bobbi Brown gel liners are my favorite because they are completely smudge proof and long lasting. The Mac liquid eyeliner works well also. After applying the liquid liner to the top, use a white kohl eye pencil to line the inside under your eyes…just a little bit. The complete eye-lining look will give you those innocent and flirty doe eyes. Recommended: Bobbi Brown Gel Eyeliner Black, Mac Black liquid eyeliner, and Mac Fascinating Eye Kohl Pencil
7. Mascara: Apply a coat or two of black mascara to the lashes (both real and false). Make sure to apply mascara to both top and bottom lashes. Recommended: Dior Show Black Mascara
8. False Eyelashes: Always black. My favorites are Ardel’s Demi Wispies, and 747 Mediums. They both have a natural outward flair. Perfect for adding the finishing touches on your doe eyes!
9. Blush: Audrey Hepburn had such a soft youthful glow to her that she really didn’t use that much blush. Definitely use light pinks, natural blush tones for this look. Use a large angled blush brush and gently sweep a little blush on the cheekbones in an upward motion. Then, sweep the same color blush across the apples of your cheeks. Recommended: Mac Pinch Me, and Nars Orgasm
10. Lips: Audrey wore shades of natural pink during the daytime, and deeper berry colors in the evenings. When you apply your lip liner, draw it a little on the outside of your natural lip line to make your lips appear fuller. The upper lip should be lined to exceed the lower lip in width, and make sure to draw a very defined “Cupid’s Bow” on your top lip. Choosing the color liner “Subculture” for daytime, or “Brick” for an evening look. Apply the lip liner, completely lining your lip top and bottom. (The lip liner shade should be only 1 shade darker than your lip color at most.) Then with the lip liner, gently brush the liner pencil over the entire lip (top and bottom), coloring in as much as you can. After that, gently brush translucent powder over your lips. Setting the color. Then proceed with your lipstick color. Using a lip brush, brush the outer edges of your lips toward the center of your mouth with the berry red color, or daytime natural pink lip color. No gloss is needed, as Audrey’s lips were always matte. Recommended: (Daytime) Mac Lip pencil Subculture, Mac Lipstick Hue. (Evening) Mac Brick Lip pencil, and Mac Lipstick Viva Glam 1
For playful Audrey Hepburn hair, make sure and wash your hair a day before doing this style. You will achieve more hold and better volume if your hair has some natural oils in it. Audrey typically wore her hair in a ponytail with a chic scarf or ribbon, or in her famous French Pleat hairstyle from Breakfast At Tiffany’s.
Start by using a thermal protection styling spray that you can use with medium hot rollers. Section off your hair (small sections), create a side part, and then spray each section of hair.
Roll the hair on the top of your head in an upward motion with the rollers. The sections of hair on each side of your head should be curled and secured in a downward motion. Securing everything for half an hour.
Using a volumizing hairspray spray your entire head. Then gently remove the rollers, and brush out your curls using a boar bristle brush. Using a small teasing brush or comb, take small sections of hair on the crown of your head and gently tease the root (aprox. 1 inch at the root) of each section. Backcomb your roots with a fine tooth comb to add volume and texture so your updo stays in place.
Gently brush out in a backward motion away from your face, and spray again with your volumizing hairspray. Part your bangs on the side, creating a side swept appearance.
Then, pull the right side of your hair (from your crown to the nape of your neck) back and bobby pin it back along the middle of your head. The length of your hair should be hanging. Now pull the left side of your hair back to meet the right side in the middle.
Twist the two sections of hanging hair together and up toward the crown of your head, to cover the line of pins. Secure the twist to the back of your head with bobby pins. Swirl the ends of the twist into a loose, messy bun at the crown of your head and secure it with bobby pins. Finish with your volumizing hairspray. Recommended: Kenra Thermal Protection Spray, CHI Magnified Volume hairspray, bobby pins, medium rollers, large boar bristle brush, and small teasing brush
Here are some of today’s leading ladies channeling Audrey Hepburn’s youthful doe-eyed makeup and classic hairstyles:
Remember, confidence and femininity are the keys to achieving any modern pinup look. So put on those oversized glamorous sunglasses, slip on your ballerina flats and flash that beautiful smile! Now you’ve got that fun youthfulness and class just like Audrey Hepburn!