1920's Fashion History

With the end of World War I, the world was ready to celebrate! Dubbed “The Jazz Age”, the 1920’s are romanticized as the decade of fun, dancing and jazz. Popular dances were the Fox Trot, Tango, the Shimmy and the dance of the decade, the Charleston. Prohibition, which went into effect in 1920, and lasted until 1933, had a major influence on life in the 1920’s. Old time saloons were replaced with illegal drinking spots, called “speakeasies”.

Art Deco emerged in the 1920’s, previously known as the “Art Moderne” – a feeling of modernism – evident in art, architecture and of course fashion! The style of art deco varies, but includes geometric lines and futuristic designs.

In 1920, women finally received the right to vote. With this new emancipation, women strove to be socially equal as well. The Flapper was born! In Flapper magazine in August, 1922, the following description of a flapper was offered:

“WHAT THE FLAPPER STANDS FOR”. . .“Short skirts. Rolled sox. Bobbed Hair. Powder and Rouge. No corsets. One-piece bathing suits. No chaperons. Attractive clothes. The inalienable rights to make dates. Good times. . .”

In the twenties, music, art, fashion and attitudes were youth driven. It was very fashionable to be young! In 1922, Flapper magazine listed the popular slang of the day: “Cat’s Meow – Great” “Bee’s Knees – Wonderful” “Neck and Pet – Make out” “Scram, Go fly a Kite – Get Lost” “Heebie Jeebies – Nervous” “Out on Parole – Divorced”

1920’s Fashion

Fashion in the twenties was different in the first half of the era than the 2nd half. In the early 1920’s the wasp waisted gowns of the Edwardian era were replaced with the chemise, a streamlined, straight, simple, tubular dress with a dropped waist. Contrary to popular belief, general evening hemlines were still very long, just above the ankle to mid calf. In the early 20’s, flappers however, pushed the envelope by wearing hemlines just below the knee!

Although the early twenties still incorporated the full skirted Robe de Style gowns of the eighteenth century and the floor length, slinky dresses to be seen much more in the 1930’s, the 1920’s are best known for the flapper dress.

The flapper dress was seen in many different types of fabrics and adornments including beaded chiffon, lace, velvet, sequins and lame, a 1920’s favorite. Most often, these beaded overdresses were worn over a slip dress. To see our selection of replica reproduction beaded overdresses, click here. Many had lots of fringe so that the flapper could shimmy when she danced! To view our selection of fringed, flapper dresses, CLICK HERE.

Also popular, was the “picot-edged tabs” or “carwash hem”, fringe like panels meant to swing and sway when worn. To view our cocktail and car wash hem flapper dresses, CLICK HERE.

Hair

The wildly popular hairstyle in the 20’s was the boyish new bob, often word with a headband. Another popular look was the finger wave.

Hats/Headbands/Combs

Formal evening wear was most often accompanied with headdresses (headbands), wound around the head, adorned with a variety of jewels, medallions and/or feathers. Another favorite was the art deco comb. Often celluloid, available in all shapes and sizes, both hand carved and rhinestone versions. The turban and cloche hat was also popular. Cloche hats were deep, close-fitting and pulled down to the eye brows. Skull-caps were typical of the vamp style inspired by the east and silent films. To see our selection of flapper hats and headbands, CLICK HERE.

Shoes

The more popular shoe styles of the 1920’s were t-straps, oxfords, peep toes and mary janes.  To see our selection of flapper style shoes, CLICK HERE.

Accessories:

Hose: Often worn with back seams, usually black or white (nude was still considered too racy).

Evening Bags: Were generally fine mesh and beaded, framed and pouch or flat envelope style. Plain silver, gold and black or with art deco designs. A favorite brand of the day was Whiting & Davis. To view our flapper purses, including Whiting & Davis, CLICK HERE.

Gloves: For evening were often worn long, above the elbow. To view our gloves, CLICK HERE.

Boas/Furs: Fur and boas were often used as neck wraps. To view our costume boas, CLICK HERE.

Fans: Fabulous feather fans were often a must have accessory for an evening out.

Pearls: Pearls of every size and shape were popular since cultured pearls were relatively inexpensive. To view our selection of flapper pearls, CLICK HERE.

Cigarette Holders: Flappers lived on the wild side and often carried long, opulent holders for their cigarettes. To view our costume flapper cigarette holders, CLICK HERE.

Velvet  & Fringe Robes/Scarves: The legendary Mariano Fortuny introduced the extravagant and prestigious beaded and printed silk and silk velvet and fringed robes, inspired by the Grecian and Renaissance motifs. Often seen were kimono style robes and batwing sleeves. To view our selection of reproduction vintage velvet and fringe robes, CLICK HERE.

Makeup: Flappers often wore the makeup with lots of white powder, roughed checks and cupidbow red lips.

-UV